BHARHUT - THE FIRST CHAPTER OF BUDDHIST ART & ARCHTICECTURE
We leave early to see Bharhut and feel the place. The route to Bharhut is from Satna. It is around 23 k.ms from Satna. We go to Lagargawan and from there take the kutchha road for 5 k.ms. The site where the Mahastupa once stood has been cordoned off by the Archaeological Survey of India.The stupa site has a magnificient backdrop a huge hill. On the right side of the stupa there is a mound with a 'shikar gah' on the top. There are three lakes near the stupa. A little ahead is the Bharhut village, which the villagers say is 200 years old. On the left side of the stupa is a platform with the image of Hanuman on it. A broken panel of the stupa with traces of an elephant and bells is embedded into the platform.
We meet a remarkable person Rajeev Soni,in the village who is in love with his surroundings Rajeev has a sound knowledge of history and has his own insights into the architecture of the period. He takes us around the stupa and the hill behind, which is called Lalpahadi by the villagers. Rajeev tells us that in all probability there were stupas all along the slope some small and some big. He points convincingly to the bricks coming down in great numbers when it rains. What are the bricks doing there if there were no structures? There are traces of small votive stupas and bigger stupas. If what he says is proved Bharhut will go down in Indian history as a site where experimentation in architecture has been carried out on a monumental scale. We had a gut feeling that a lot remains under the ground we walked, and someday one may throw more light on this fascinating period of Indian history of 3 rd century BC and much before that. One also had a feeling that one might tumble on prehistoric rock paintings pushing the time of habitation backwards. It is a fact that flakes have been found. There probably was a microlith blade industry in bygone era on the banks of river Tamas that flows near the Lal pahadi
Remains of main stupa
Bharhut was on the uttarapatha trade route that joined at Kosala and proceeded further towards Kosambi from where one route went towards Dakshinapatha. It must have been a very important cultural and trade center in 3 rd century BC. The Sungas enriched what was the original Mauryan stupa probably with Buddha's relics enshrined in it, with a beautiful sculpted balustrade and gateway. The artists were probably the tribal themselves. It seems they were just being converted to the Buddhist creed. The popular Yakshas and Yakshis worship cult of pre Buddhist era is prominent on the stupa reliefs along with the rich flora and fauna of the surroundings. Jatakas are depicted although the Buddha could not be shown in the human form. The Yakshas and Yakshinis have tribal features, they wear a lot of jewelry like the girdles, necklaces, earrings, beautiful veils and have tattooed marks on their bodies. They are shown standing on the Yakshas or animals there by popularizing the concept of Vahana which is very important in later Hindu sculpture. The sculpture of the Sungas is unsophisticated, vibrant, throbbing with the celebration of life unlike the preceding Mauryan sophisticated, heraldic sculpture exuding foreign influences.
Sculptural remains at site
The Barhut stupa was discovered by Cunningham in 1873. The large part of sculptural relief was sent to the museum in Calcutta. Allahabad, Bombay, Ramvan etc museums also have a few specimens. It is said that a part of gateway sank when it was being shipped to England during Cunnighum's time.
Further excavations of the mound close by where the Shikargah is located can reveal a lot. The local population has to be congratulated on the vigilance they keep when they find strangers loitering around the stupa. For many attempts have been made to find sculptures to ship them abroad for millions of dollars. A case of history repeating itself, but this time by the citizens of this country. The credit of spreading awareness among the villages and sense of pride in the heritage of the land undoubtedly goes to the Rajeev Soni who prefers to bear a title of 'Bharhut'. He explores the site and its surroundings every day for four hours and jots down his observations. He is getting recognition for his undying efforts. If only every archaeological site in India had one dedicated local person like Mr. Rajeev, India's past heritage would be secure.
|
We are told that a sculpture of a Yakshi is worshipped in the village Bhatinwara close to Bharhut. The temple that enshrines her image is called Kali temple. When we enter the precincts of the temple we see a figure draped in red cloth with just the head visible. Above the head are typical motifs of Bharhut, the half medallions and the blue lotus in between. The silver eyes that have been inserted on the Goddess's face transform her face. We hesitatingly ask the villagers if we can see her without the veil. They agree, the veil is set aside to reveal the astonishingly beautiful Yakshi adorned with necklaces, standing on a seated Yaksha.
The villagers tell us the story of how the image got here. The Yakshi was being worshipped by an Adivasi. One day he had a dream in which the goddess ordered him to take her to a certain place but she warned him that if he places her on ground she could not be removed. After crossing the river he placed her on the ground and she could not be removed. A temple was built on that place. Since the stone of the statue is black in colour so she is called Kali Devi. It is amazing how traditions continue for thousands of years. Yakshi who was a Goddess by her own right before Buddhism is worshipped again during the Hindu period as Kali. She is called by different names but the essence is the same.
A slab with the Pratihara design lying near the maha-stupa indicates that Bharhut was probably an important centre for along time after the Sungas till the time when a Shikargah was built. When Cunningham came here it was in the ruins. The village came up after the surrounding areas were cleared and agriculture commenced. The view from the Lal Pahad is breath taking. Mountains, lakes in the midst, simply a chapter from the dream land.
From Bharhut we go to Ramvan which is 23 k.ms from Satna. It is 9 k.ms from the village of Sajjanpur. You can see the cement gates in the form of Bharhut toranas from a distance.
The Museum set up has an excellent collection of sculptures, manuscripts and coins of different centuries.
There is a medallion from Bharhut, which was being used as a grind stone. A hole has been made in the centre and two grooves on either side. It has been retrieved from the Bharhut village.
A panel of showing Champeya Jataka from Bharhut too is preserved in this museum.